Auto Finesse Ford Focus RS

Auto Finesse Ford Focus RS

Starting at £32,765 the Ford Focus RS is the cheapest of direct competitors such as the Mercedes AMG A45 and VW Golf R.
TECH SPEC BREAKDOWN: Engine: 2.3-litre turbocharged EcoBoost
Transmission: 6-speed manual, Power: 345bhp, Torque: 470Nm
Max speed: 165mph
0-62mph: 4.7seconds
Economy: 36.7 mpg (combined)
CO2: 175g/km

Introducing the Ford Focus RS; the latest model to wear the famous RS badge. Those letters follow a long line of affordable high-performance Fords, starting way back in 1968 with the introduction of the 15M RS, with the Escort RS1600, Sierra RS Cosworth and Escort RS Cosworth arriving later.

The very first Focus RS model was front-wheel drive and arrived on UK roads back in 2002, complete with a wider body, Quaife limited-slip differential and increased power to shock the masses. In 2009 came the Mk2. Again featuring front-drive and an increased power of 301bhp, along with RevoKnuckle front suspension. Seven years on, here you have the Mk3.

Succumbing to pressure from competition such as the Mercedes AMG A45 and Audi RS3, Ford has changed up the front-wheel drive tradition of past RS-badged Focus’ and fitted a new electronically controlled twin-clutch four-wheel drive system for optimum traction.

Powered by a Cosworth-tuned version of the Mustang’s 2.3-litre EcoBoost petrol lump and adding a twin-scroll turbo with a larger compressor for better airflow, as well as a larger intercooler, the car has an output of 345bhp and can reach 0-62mph in just 4.7-seconds, before hitting its top speed of 165mph. It has four drive modes to choose from including Normal, Sport, Track and Drift, of which you can select via a button to the right of the centre console.

If the aforementioned power levels aren’t enough for you, tuning specialists such as Mountune and American performance company Hennessey have both created upgrade packs taking power to 370bhp and 405bhp, respectively – at a cost, of course!

This car gets a lush set of Race Style Recaro RS shell seats – an option at £1,145 – as well as 19-inch black forged alloy wheels (£975) and the exclusive Nitrous Blue paint (£745). And the Brembo brakes have been colour coordinated at an extra cost of £100. Inside, you get Ford’s Sync 3 system, meaning you get an 8-inch touchscreen display, satnav, smartphone compatibility, DAB radio and Bluetooth, along with ten Sony speakers, and good storage to the centre console and door cards.

while in terms of emissions it’s not as bad as you’d think for a car of this type and power output, at just 175g/km of CO2.

All in all the Ford Focus RS is a cracking driver’s car to boot!

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2018 New Porsche 911 GT3 RS….a clear focus on motorsport.

2018 New Porsche 911 GT3 RS….a clear focus on motorsport.

2018 New Porsche 911 GT3 RS…… Wow!! I know these are at the very extreme of car ownership for most people, me definitely included, but if I ever won the lottery I’d be 1st in the queue 🙂 One of the last naturally aspirated ‘supercars’ too! There’s nothing quite like the sweet sound of a revvy engine to stir the soul of any petrolhead 😉

The Porsche motorsport department is presenting Weissach’s latest treat at the Geneva Motor Show: the 911 GT3 RS with motorsport chassis.
The new high-performance sports car with 383-kW (520-hp) and four-litre, high-speed naturally aspirated engine is based on the 911 GT3, which has been refined still further to combine the performance-enhanced engine with a running-gear setup that features re-calibrated rear axle steering designed for maximum dynamics and precision. The 911 GT3 RS accelerates from 0 to 100 km/h in 3.2 seconds, reaching a top speed of 312 km/h. Following the launch of the 911 GT3 and the 911 GT2 RS, this latest release will see Porsche present its third GT road-approved sports car within a year.

Aerodynamics and interior based on the race trim

Aerodynamics have determined the design of the wide, weight-optimised body with its classic rigid rear wing. The racing look continues into the interior with full bucket seats made of carbon to provide secure lateral support in response to high-level driving dynamics. Lightweight door panels with storage nets and opening loops, reduced sound absorption and the new lightweight rear lid further emphasise the consistency of the material choices.

The most powerful naturally aspirated engine at 520 hp

The four-litre, six-cylinder naturally aspirated engine from Porsche in the new 911 GT3 RS pushes the sports car to new limits: The flat engine delivers 15 kW (20 hp) more than the engine in the previous model and the 911 GT3. Together with a speed range reaching up to 9,000 rpm, it was the ideal choice as a thoroughbred sports engine. Combined with the specially calibrated seven-speed PDK, the high-performance engine guarantees an outstanding driving performance.

Motorsport-inspired chassis and Clubsport package

Technology straight from motorsport ensures that the chassis offers exceptional driving dynamics. Ball joints on all arms provide even greater precision than conventional elastokinematic bearings. 20-inch lightweight wheels with newly developed 265/35 sports tyres on the front axle enhance agility and steering behaviour, while 21‑inch wheels with 325/30 tyres at the rear axle improve traction.

The chassis offers exceptional driving dynamics

As with all current GT sports cars, the Clubsport package is also available for the 911 GT3 RS at no extra cost. The package includes a roll-over bar, a manual fire extinguisher, preparation for a battery disconnect switch and a six-point belt for a sporty driving experience.

Weissach package and magnesium wheels for additional weight savings

For particularly ambitious drivers, the Porsche motorsport department has created an optional Weissach package for a further weight reduction. The package features additional carbon components for the chassis, interior and exterior, as well as optional magnesium wheels. In its lightest configuration, this package reduces the weight of the 911 GT3 RS down to 1,430 kilogrammes.

The new 911 GT3 RS is available to order now. It will be launched in Germany from mid-April 2018.

Consumption data:
911 GT3 RS: Fuel consumption combined 12.8 l/100 km; CO2 emissions 291 g/km
911 GT3: Fuel consumption combined 12.9 – 12.7 l/100 km; CO2 emissions 290 – 288 g/km
911 GT2 RS: Fuel consumption combined 11.8 l/100 km; CO2 emissions 269 g/km
The New Car Treatment – Auto Finesse Guide

The New Car Treatment – Auto Finesse Guide

The New Car Treatment.

When a shiny new car hits our fleet, the first thing we we is perform a ‘new car prep’. This is a walk-through guide to that process.

Those of you that have acquired a new vehicle will be familiar with the immediate excitement you feel, but more often than not disappointment shortly follows. The condition of the paint and overall finish is never as good as you’d hoped for or expect. It’s no secret most new cars turn up in what most of us would class as a substandard condition of finish – now don’t get us wrong, not all brands and dealers are the same, there are some exceptions and companies leading the way on delivering a new car the way we would expect it to be. However, for the most part, mass production of vehicles and the high-flow nature of most mainstream car dealer franchises means they simply don’t give your new car the same care and attention you would yourself.

Here’s the low down on what to do when ordering your new car; all you have to do is simply ask them not to prepare it. Don’t even let them wash it. If possible, take it home with the protective coverings still in place (we get that this is not always possible, mind).

The problem we have here with this BMW 3 Series is it was a pre-reg car that had been sitting around in the dealership for a while, 4-6 months in fact and had been subject to its fair share of “quick washes” and the odd forecourt wipe down. None the less, we got it for a steal and lets face it, if it turned up perfect we wouldn’t have a lot to show you.

So, we picked the car up with just 200 (delivery) miles on the clock. First thing’s first, we changed the wheels and fit some new adjustable Bilstein suspension.

To kick things off we begin at the wash stage, it’s worth noting our wash on a pre-detail differs from that of a normal routine maintenance wash.
Starting with the wheels, we first cover the entire wheel face, barrel, callipers and tyres with Imperial wheel cleaner.
Using an array of brushes, wooly trios and a microfibre mitt will ensure you get to every part of each wheel. Leave the solution to dwell for a minute before jet washing off.

Repeat this process to each individual wheel. It’s worth noting we also clean the tyre walls at this point.

With the wheels clean we move on to washing the rest of the exterior of the vehicle. The first step is using our pre cleaner Citrus Power on the grubbier areas, such as lower seals, wheel arches, front, and rear sections, before jet washing. This helps to rid bodywork of as much of the larger particles and lose dirt as possible.

Before we go on to contact washing, there’s another vital step to removing as much dirt and road grime (ahead of making contact with it). This is important because the majority of paintwork swirls and scratches are caused at the wash stage. Snow Foam helps to break down a further 50-90% of road grime present, we apply this to the entire vehicle from top to bottom and leave to dwell for as long as possible – rinsing off before any drying out begins to occur. We also use this as an opportunity to work on intricate areas such as grills and panel gaps, using our specialist brushes.

With the car now almost clean from the previous two stages, we now move on to the contact wash. Using two buckets (both filled with fresh water), add our Lather shampoo to just one of them.

Using a lambswool wash mitt, we take fresh shampoo to the bodywork. Ensure to work from the top of the vehicle down. Focus on small sections at a time, before going back to the fresh water and rising any dirt from the mitt. Once rinsed, dip the mitt back into the bucket with shampoo to take fresh shampoo back to the car. This ensures you only ever use fresh clean shampoo on the vehicle. Working around the vehicle in the following pattern; roof, bonnet, upper wings, upper sides/doors and quarters, front bumper, rear, before swapping to a microfibre mitt that we use exclusively on the lower/grubbier areas around the vehicle. This is done to minimise contamination for future washes. Finally, we thoroughly rinse the vehicle down.

With the car still wet from the wash, but all soap/suds residue thoroughly rinsed, we set about ridding any bonded contamination from the paintwork. Firstly, spray the entire vehicle with our Iron Out iron contamination remover – this dissolves any ferrous contaminants that are present. It’s best to dissolve these as opposed to removing them with a clay bar as they are among the sharpest type of contaminant found on a vehicle, and removal with a clay bar can lead to these sharp contaminants being dragged across the paintwork causing fine minor scratches known as ‘marring’. Once the car is covered, paying particular attention to the upward facing panels along the rear and sides, a top tip is to lightly agitate Iron Out in to these areas with a microfibre or foam applicator.

Using ObliTARate, it’s time to dissolve another of the commonly found contaminants stuck to our vehicle’s paintwork; tar. More often found gathered along lower areas and behind wheels, simply spray ObliTARate tar and grime remover onto the lower half of the car and leave to dwell for just a couple of minutes before wiping away with a microfibre towel.

Now we rinse and re wash the areas that have been treated with the tar remover to avoid it interfering or dissolving the clay bar (the next stage).

This leads us to the final stage of decontamination, the mechanical stage using a clay bar. Clay baring your paintwork is a vital step in detail preparation and its important to carry this out meticulously.

Working in straight lines, and using plenty of clay bar lubricant, work small areas approx 400mm x 400mm, in the same order we carried out the wash stage; so, uppers, top sides, front bumper, back, and lower sides.

We quickly carry out a final rinse down to remove the clay lube, then dry the vehicle thoroughly, including, gaps, grills and door jambs.

After the “wet work” is all done, we get the car in the detailer’s den (basically a storage barn we can tuck ourselves away in and detail to our hearts content). We start by taping off any “sensitive” areas that we don’t want to hit with polish, such as trim, rubber and other exposed parts.

Now we get on to polishing the paint. Our vehicle is suffering from only very light defects, all be it lots, but none of which are very deep, the combo opted for was our Revitalise No:2 with the according pad. Working on areas of around 400mm x 400mm in overlapping slow passes, starting at speed 1 to spread the polish, and stepping up to speed 4-5 to work the polish in and break it down, before returning to a final slow speed pass at speed 1.

Follow up with our Revitalise No:3 and the red finishing pad to refine the vehicle’s surface further.

With the paint now looking sharp, we set about laying some protection down. As this particular car is a metallic finish, we opted for a gem in the range often overlooked by many; Spirit. Our Spirit wax has been specially developed to enhance metallic flake and it’s also very durable in day to day situations.

Finish up with the finer details such as dressing grills, trims and tyres, and finishing off the glass.

All thats left to do now is roll it outside and admire the finish…

So there you have it, a new car now looking the way it should from the dealership. It’s also now fully protected, meaning that it should only take a careful wash to return it back to this condition.

We hope you found this guide to detailing a new car useful, and please feel free to contact us for further information on the techniques and products used in this process.

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Ford Focus RS Heritage Edition

Ford Focus RS Heritage Edition

Focus RS Heritage Edition…….Here’s the One that everybody wants to get there hands on BUT there’s a slight problem with that! Only 50 are being made!! It’s a real shame that Ford haven’t done anything to the Interior or even added a Plaque to make this the Heritage Edition that bit more special. Still it will be a very unique model to own & very exclusive to boot. I just hope that I see some of these out on the roads being used! It will be interesting to see what happens to the Future Values of these cars. Will they go the same way as the Mk2 Focus RS500?
Focus RS Heritage Edition Price List Link

BRENTWOOD, Essex – Ford has announced a limited run of 50 Focus RS Heritage Edition models, exclusive to the UK market, before production stops altogether on 6th April 2018.

Following the announcement of the “RS Red Edition” in December, just 50 Focus RS Heritage Edition models will be produced. These will be in a unique “Tief Orange” (“Deep Orange”) body colour. Marking 50 years of the Escort nameplate in the UK and commemorating the most iconic model of its line, the RS.

In addition to the Deep Orange exterior colour, the Focus RS Heritage Edition features grey brake callipers behind black forged alloy wheels. Plus the Focus RS Edition’s trademark contrasting black door mirrors and rear spoiler. It also comes equipped with partial leather Recaro seats, privacy glass, a sunroof, rear parking sensors, power-fold door mirrors, cruise control with speed limiter and heated steering wheel.

All Focus RS Edition models features a front mechanical Quaife limited-slip differential (LSD), providing heightened dynamic sensation for performance driving enthusiasts. The Heritage Edition also gains the dealer-fitted FPM375 Mountune upgrade, increasing overboost power from 350PS to 375PS, and torque from 470Nm to 510Nm, thanks to a high-flow induction kit, uprated turbo re-circulating valve and calibration. The RS Heritage Edition will be priced at £39,895.

Andy Barratt, chairman and managing director, Ford of Britain, said: “The RS brand is hugely important to Ford and is recognised across the globe, however it has a special place in the hearts of UK Ford fans. This latest model is the best RS we’ve ever produced, so it seems a fitting tribute as we approach its 50th anniversary.”

The Focus RS Edition has been developed by Ford Performance engineers and evaluated at locations across the globe to enhance the traction and responsiveness using a Quaife LSD for the front axle.

The mechanical LSD limits engine torque delivered to a wheel that has reduced traction on the road surface, and redistributes torque to the wheel with more traction to counteract the wheelspin that can hamper acceleration and stability.

By controlling the torque delivered to each front wheel, the Focus RS Edition’s Quaife LSD enables drivers to exploit the power delivered by its 2.3-litre EcoBoost engine in high-performance driving situations even more, and integrates with Focus RS driving technologies delivered as standard, including:

  • Ford Performance All Wheel Drive, which varies the front-to-rear torque distribution to suit the current driving situation – monitoring inputs from vehicle sensors 100 times per second and sending a maximum of 70 per cent of the drive torque to the rear axle
  • Dynamic Torque Vectoring – which uses electronically-controlled clutch packs on the rear axle to send up to 100 per cent of the available torque to either rear wheel, and can switch drive from one side to the other in as little as 0.06sec
  • Torque Vectoring Control (TVC) – which automatically applies small amounts of brake force to limit wheel spin at the front axle.

Auto Finesse 12 Steps of Detailing for Beginners

Auto Finesse 12 Steps of Detailing for Beginners

When starting anything, it’s often hard to know where to start, never mind detailing. Detailing can be a maze, there are a number of different levels of detailing, with a number of different techniques and theories, but we’re here to start you off on some of the basics. Basics that probably sound too detailed to be basic, but we can assure you this is as basic as a proper detail gets.

This is our 12-step programme to a beginner’s detail:

Step one: Wheels. Always, always, always start with the wheels. We can’t say it enough. Your wheels are the grubbiest area of the car so will require a good pre-soak with a quality wheel cleaner. You’ll need brushes to get to the hard-to-reach areas, along with a separate wash mitt and bucket than you’d use on the paintwork.

Step two: Pre-cleaner, stage one. Always use a pre-cleaner. One specifically formulated to remove bugs and stubborn grime. We’d recommend our Citrus Power, which is infused with citrus cleaning properties to safely but effectively lessen road grime with the benefit of being gentle to wax or sealant layers, something that will come in to its own on washes later down the line. Spray this on the lower areas of the car, as well as any areas that have become bug-splattered.

Step three: Snow foam, stage two. Snow foams help to break down any stubborn dirt, as well as remove any loose particles from the vehicle, before the physical contact wash stage. Removing as much dirt as possible before contact washing will help to reduce the likelihood of inflicting swirl marks to the paint finish. (most swirls are caused at the wash stage)

Step four: The all-important two-bucket method contact wash. Did you ever think it’d be step four before even putting mitt to paint?! It’s important to use a good-quality shampoo, further reducing the likelihood of any marring or light scratches or swirls, the deep pile allow any particles to be absorbed in to the mitt as opposed to pressed and dragged across the surface. Fill one bucket with wash solution, the other with plain water. Apply wash solution to the vehicle (washing from top down small sections at a time) – Rinse the mitt first in the water bucket before taking fresh wash solution to the car. This method ensures you don’t contaminate your wash solution and are always using clean wash water on your car.


Step five: The decontamination stage. First off, before doing anything, you’ll need to spray on an iron dissolver first – our Iron Out product is perfect at this stage – this will dissolve any ferrous contamination such as industrial fall out and rail dust that has fused itself to the paintwork. Next, you’ll need to use a solvent tar remover to soften any tar that may be stuck to the paint. An important step here is to rewash the vehicle, or at least the areas treated with the solvent, as solvents will melt Clay bars and really interfere with the next step. Clay bars are brilliant, just rub the block over the paintwork using a slip or lube and it does the hard work for you, effectively shaving off any remaining contamination such as tree sap or even overspray in its path. Following the previous two stages, though, there shouldn’t be too much for the clay bars to pick up. Remember to use a lubricant such as Auto Finesse Glide with any clay bar! Then wash and rinse again.

Step six: Drying. Start at the top of the vehicle and work your way down. Tackling it panel by panel will be the easiest way to make sure you get every area streak free. It’s important to work quickly (to avoid water spots), while being thorough so not to leave any streaks from the drying process. If you are left with any water spots, a quick detailer is a great product to clean them up with after.

Step seven: Polishing. You can either polish by hand or you can polish using a machine polisher. Polishing by hand will give you a good finish, but it won’t be anywhere near as good as a machine polish (if you know what you’re doing). We have products for both applications. We’d advise against putting any machine polisher to your car without experience. Our top tip would be to practice on a separate panel first. These are easy enough to pick up from scrap yards. Better that than burning through the paint on your car, resulting in a full panel respray or even a whole car respray.

Step eight: Glaze. Between the polishing and waxing and sealant stages, we would add in our paint glaze. Ultra Glaze is our non-abrasive acrylic, polymer-enriched, glaze designed to enhance paintwork and reduce the appearance of fine swirls. Top tip; it’s particularly good for darker colours and metallic.

Step nine. Wax / seal. Each one of these stages is as important as the other, but waxing or sealing is right up there in the must do list. Applying a layer of wax or sealant will protect all your previous hard work from step one through to eight. If you’re unsure of what wax to use on your paint, take a look at our wax explained piece.

Step ten. Tyre dressings and trim. Following the cleaning of your tyres and trims, now it’s onto the preening. There are products to get plastics back to their true colours, as well as things that will spruce up your tyres without making them greasy.

Step 11. Glass. Glass is something people often forget. Whether it’s light scratches or just finger prints (all Titanic style), a good-quality glass cleaner such as Crystal is a must in any detailers kit.

Finally. Step 12. Final touch-up and wipe down with a quick detailer will finish off all the previous hard work. A good quick detailer will rid the surfaces of any potential residue left from waxing or sealing, as well as any finger prints perhaps left from you going around your vehicle, and generally tidy-up any missed bits or trim dressing that has strayed. It’s finishing touches like this that often get overlooked, but can be the most important, especially for that show-finish we all so desperately want to achieve.

So that’s our 12-steps of detailing for beginners. If you’ve got any additional questions, or you’re not sure on any aspect, drop us an email at and we’ll get back to you.



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Handmade in the UK. THE ART OF DETAILING! Quality car care products. Made by Detailers for Detailers.